Ashton’s Dairy of a Sweet Tooth debuts here

        My mid-afternoon ritual requires a sugar fix.  But not just any sweet will do.  I’m always on the prowl for a knockout, the crème de la crème. Here’s a report on some current favorites.

         I detest Magnolia Bakery cupcakes (sorry New York chauvinists). The method of reaching over people, serving yourself, the ridiculous line filled with Carrie Bradshaw fans, and the I-need-to-brush-my-teeth feeling after one dip of a finger in the icing. Yick. But their Hummingbird Cake (which they sell by the slice) is the only version of the cake (I've seen) above the Mason-Dixon Line, and it's a pretty good one at that. Even diehard carrot cake fans may be converted. (401 Bleecker Street, Grand Central Station, Rockefeller Center, 200 Columbus Ave.)

Magnolia's Hummingbird Cake is perfectly crumbly and frosted. Photo: Ashton Keefe

        Sweet Revenge is a cupcake bar. Literally, a bar. Here you can have your cocktails and your cupcake. Marlo, the owner, is gaining ground in the NYC food world with her signature Mohawk cupcakes (their signature icing swirl that looks like hip haircut uses a St. Honore tip) and wine/beer pairings. Favorite flavors: Crimson and Cream and Sweet Revenge. (62 Carmine Street.)

        As much as I detest French tourists, over-rated French Fries and the constant go-go-go of  Balthazar's scene, I often indulged myself after a long day at  The French Culinary Institute with their "Late Afternoon Menu" which includes some of my favorite things from their kitchen. To finish the meal I'd have the Warm Chocolate Cake with White Chocolate Ice Cream. I know the middle isn't cooked even close to where health code would permit, but all you do-gooders, keep your mouth shut and eat. Don't ruin the one good thing about this place. That, and if you are a woman dining alone you get a free glass of bubbly. (80 Spring Street.)

Balthazar's chocolate goodness with white chocolate ice cream. Photo: Ashton Keefe

        There's nothing better than afternoon tea. In fact, that's part of my dessert ritual when the temperature dips anywhere below 70 degrees. I should have been British! Alas, my ears and teeth are too small and straight respectively ... but one thing I can enjoy is tea and the best scones in the city at Alice's Tea Cup. Remember the saying, "Don't eat anything bigger than your head?" Well, I have a tiny head, and these scones are head-size, and I do eat them. They look like cake slices, the British would be appalled! Best bets are the strawberry (or raspberry) and chocolate scones and whatever the daily special is. (102 West 73rd Street, 156 East 64th Street. 220 East 81st Street.)

        My favorite dessert of all time has to be ice cream. I could eat it for breakfast, late night, in bed, and in just about every country on this planet... considering I lived on packaged ice cream in remote China. But I'm a picky bitch, and only the best will do. As a Jersey Girl, Hoffman's Ice Cream (if you're from Jersey you know this place) is home. I actually love the stuff so much I once had an ex-boyfriend bet me that if I got a job there (I was basically there all the time anyways!) he would take me to Per Se. Thinking back on it I should have taken the dare!

        But in New York Grom is the best. Also the most expensive (if you trust The Times) but in my opinion, worth it. Best flavor, Cioccolato Extranoir, i.e. Extra Dark Chocolate sorbetto. It hurts me to admit it, but Emack and Bolio, the Boston import is my runner up for the freshest ingredients and a staff that knows me so well they slab on an extra scoop when they see me coming. (Grom: 233 Bleecker Street, 2165 Broadway at 76th Street, 1765 Broadways. Emack and Bolio: 73 West Houston Street, 81st Street and First Avenue, Amsterdam Avenue between 78th and 79th Street.)

        For pies and all breakfast desserts (biscuits!) it can only be Bubby's for me. I'm not a brunch person. I suppose that sounds subversively non-New York. Maybe it's the chef in me that thinks about the over-worked, often cranky staff putting together chef's left-over Saturday night special scramble. I'm usually not this cynical but instead of waiting in line with other cranky (and hungover) New Yorkers to pay $12 for an omelet, wouldn't you rather be in bed with the one you love, or the guy you met last night at 4 a.m.? Luckily for me Bubby's is open 24/7 and serves breakfast most of the day. If you're feeling exceptionally needy get their Banana Pancakes and then a slice of the Cherry Pie (my personal favorite, especially during the summer). (120 Hudson Street at Frankling Street.)

        City Bakery invented the fiercely sought out Pretzel Croissant playing right to the native New Yorker’s salt-tooth. It also make some of the best desserts and breads in the city. Its offshoot, Bird Bath Bakery, right down my street, makes the best Bourbon Apple Sauce Cake. I can't begin to describe how incredibly intense this dessert is. They must soak, correction, allow the cake to bathe in a buttery/bourbon mixture. Reminds me of North Carolina faster than I can eat it. They only make it during Bourbon season (which apparently is in the Fall and Winter after harvesting barley, rye, and other grains). Come to think of it, maybe they ran out because I ate so many. (City Bakery: 3 West 18th Street, Bird Bath Bakery: 223 First Avenue at 13th Street, 145 Seventh Avenue South at Charles Street, 160 Prince Street.)

       More soon…I am following a trail of powdered sugar. Click here to read more in the Diary of a Sweet Tooth.

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